On the heat. Mild

Ingredients

• 8 lamb brains
• 2 tbsp vinegar, for the soak and the blanch
• Flour, to dust
• 100 g butter
• 2 tbsp capers
• Juice of 1 lemon
• Parsley, chopped
• Salt, black pepper
• Good bread, to serve

Method

1. Soak the brains in cold water with a splash of vinegar for 1 hour, changing the water twice, until they are white.
2. Peel away the fine membrane and any visible blood vessels under running water. Gentle fingers only.
3. Poach in barely simmering water with the vinegar and a pinch of salt for 8 minutes. Lift into iced water. Drain and dry on a cloth. They can be held here for a day.
4. Halve each brain, season, and dust with flour.
5. Butter in a pan over medium heat until it foams, subsides and turns nut brown — that is noisette, and it takes about 3 minutes. Watch it constantly.
6. Brains in, 2 minutes a side. Capers, lemon and parsley into the brown butter. Spoon everything over and eat with bread while it is still foaming.

Cook's note. Poach first, fry second. Raw brains disintegrate in a pan. Poached and chilled, they firm up enough to hold a crust.

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