On the heat. Mild

Ingredients

• 12 lamb cutlets, flattened to 1 cm
• 5 tbsp good olive oil
• 3 cloves garlic, crushed
• 2 sprigs rosemary, leaves only
• Coarse salt, black pepper
• Lemon wedges

Method

1. Beat each cutlet between plastic until the eye is about 1 cm thick. The bone stays; only the meat is flattened.
2. Oil, garlic, rosemary and pepper — no salt yet. Marinate 2 hours at room temperature.
3. Grill or griddle as hot as it will go. Cutlets on, 90 seconds, turn, 90 seconds. That is the whole cook.
4. Salt them the moment they come off, heavily.
5. No resting. They go to the table immediately and are picked up by the bone — which is where the name comes from.
6. Lemon, and a plain bitter salad.

Cook's note. Salting early is the one mistake here. On a cut this thin, salt in the marinade draws out enough moisture to stop it browning in 90 seconds.

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